Whats a pick up ? I've found what the workshop manual describes as its connector (I hope anyway lol). It reckons 190-300 ohms is good, ive only got 230 on the female side of the connector. so my question is what is this thing for ? (btw the coil was disconnected and removed at this point).
The input side to the coil also has a resistance which is too high, but the HT (output) end seems in tolerance.
I'm finding it fiddly to get the back seat off...... to gain access to cdi and all the other gubbins. dam these panels !! Also a previous owner has removed the side stand light and the wires are no where to be seen grrrr and that has logic in the start sequence so i'm going to need some prayers to find that
Anyway quick walk to shop for some more cans to calm me
Andrew, to save me looking through the forums... was it you or Hipps that had the prob with loss of power ? If it was you bud, have you checked distributor cap ? Just a long shot ...
Turts wrote:
Andrew, to save me looking through the forums... was it you or Hipps that had the prob with loss of power ? If it was you bud, have you checked distributor cap ? Just a long shot ...
^^ was Hippy, i've had similar prob before was 2 things.. fuel blockage & carb
Ok been doing some testing and hunting around and found the side stand wiring, by the looks of the diagrams its in the start up logic. There was no connection on it just a ground link :s The main diode seems ok after I did a diode test on the meter, need to check what the values displayed relate to. Next step after this is to figure out which points on the CDI are meant to be sending what etc and see whether its giving anything, or breaks in wires.
I'll be hunting for a few bits and bobs on ebay to replace as I go along by the looks of things.
Andrew,
What exactly are the symptoms? sounds like it just wont start. Is there a spark?
If not, follow the route from the battery, you must do it logically or you'll miss something, on a single cylinder, to check for a spark, take the plug out and hold it against the engine casing while cranking it, otherwise you could blow the cdi. Sorry if you know this already.
Turts, both our bikes are 2 stroke singles, no dizzy.
The compression ratio will not change when it's warm, the ratio is the volume of the cylinder with the piston all the way down, to the volume with the piston all the way up. In reality, you will have slightly more air in the cylinder when it is cold because cold air is more dense, hence why you (used to ) need a choke.
edit: The side stand engine kill (is this what you're talking about?) should only kill the engine when you're in first gear, can you bypass it temporarilly just to check it? or just run a meter through it while the stand is up and make sure there's no resistance.
Re: the CDI, you shouldn't need to check the output other than seeing if there's a spark, if there is a spark, it's probably not the cdi. CDI is the last thing before the plug, so check everything else first, in order.
Last edited by Hippy on Fri Jul 13, 2007 2:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
There is no spark at all, and no output from the coil along the HT lead, and even the coil itself. I've found the wiring for the side stand, gonna tinker with it to see whether it actually operates the light etc.
If thats the case on compression im down 15psi from an ok state and 35 from a desirable state. Rings going..... gone
What's the mileage?
Unusual for piston rings to go on a small engine like that with low mileage, mine's done 22k and the rings are perfect.
Just make sure you check the circuit in a logical order or you'll never find the problem. What makes you think it's the sidestand switch?
Does the bike have a 2 way ignition switch, so you can leave the side lights on?
I found this on my bike the other day, i had no spark and the sidelights weren't working so i charged the battery to make sure, still no lights. Leading me to the conclusion the ignition switch was bust and sure enough when i took it out, having been sat in the rain for the past month, the contacts in the switch had corroded.
The lights bypass the kill switches, so that way you are testing the battery, fuse and ignition all at the same time. If they are all fine, next in line is the main kill switch, then the sidestand switch (i assume), then the coil, then contact points, then CDI, then spark plug.
Sounds like if your sidelights are working, it's the kill switches, if they're not working, it could be the ignition barrel itself.
Total electrical failure would indicate the fuse.
edit: With the bike having been sat for a while, it will have an effect on the compression readings because the rings wont be lubricated (ooerr), pour a bit of engine oil down the port and crank it over.
Last edited by Hippy on Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
The rings and piston have to be changed every 9k, and some people on the forum do this long before that and do bottom end rebuilds. you can spend thousands on these little heaps, many people seem to as well.
the engines themselves are revvy little gits and dont forget your extracting 33bhp from a 125 so it has a hard life. 264bhp per litre n/a ........
edit: will see if I can get a few hours into it this afternoon as ive been working this morning
Last edited by andrew on Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ok me and a m8 have had an hour or two on the bike tonight, basically hope we've got it sussed now..... the previous owner had bodged the wiring and has housed the wires wrong (we believe) also several connections are poor so im gonna get some new spades and what not 2moro from work and then find some time to change them over. wow long sentence
Also working with a meter everything before the cdi seems fine and everything after seems fine (apart from a few bad points) so im hoping its just a nacked cdi and a few poor connections and away I go.
